Author: Jacob Schaffer

Some new restaurants you can encounter and assess with dispassionate objectivity. Some you’ve been waiting to go to your whole life. I’m being literal. In the early 1980s, for their wedding anniversary, my parents went to The Four Seasons for dinner. This was a big deal in our house. They had been once before, soon after […]

For a long time, after every New York visit I’d come back and become suffused with dissatisfaction. Restaurant-wise, it seemed I’d done a reverse Oz, going from sparkling Technicolor to kitchen-sink black-and-white. Recent visits have felt less awe-inspiring. It seems that the city – Manhattan, especially – is playing it a lot sager. Chrysler Building-high […]