The Grill: The New Guard of the Four Seasons

The supreme fiction of the old Four Seasons restaurant was that it would last forever—that this vessel of modernism, encased in walnut and Carrara marble, would sail into the mists of time and emerge unchanged in hundreds of years, businessmen still grinning behind brazenly pink skyscrapers of cotton candy. But a few years ago the space was acquired by the property developer Aby Rosen; last year, the old crew got the boot (they’re opening a new Four Seasons nearby, in November), and Rosen ushered in Mario Carbone and his team to take the helm. The shudder could be felt all the way up to Central Park North—what would this downtown ruffian make of one of uptown’s favorite haunts?

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