The Grill

“Let me get you an emergency martini,” the table captain pronounces the second your behind hits the banquette. You didn’t ask for one—you didn’t even know you needed one until the chilled glass arrives, straight up with a twist, effectively soothing the fuss of hightailing it uptown at rush hour during a heat wave. It’s the kind of showy, hyperpersonalized service and keen eye for detail that has come to define Major Food Group, the restaurant label from Rich Torrisi, Mario Carbone and Jeff Zalaznick that’s yielded some of New York’s splashiest dining rooms (Carbone, Dirty French, Sadelle’s).