The Grill Is Confident, Theatrical, Sharp and New Yorky

New York kept certain fantasies about the Four Seasons alive for a long time. We told ourselves that it was an elegant restaurant, that it was an important restaurant, that the roll call of designers, editors and so on who ate lunch there — a short list that grew shorter as publishers moved downtown, expense accounts were clipped and longtime patrons were called by the great reservationist in the sky — was proof of something other than the tendency of famous and busy people to act from habit and herd instinct.

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