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The Grill May Be Manhattan’s Most Luxe Time Machine

NewNew York’s long boom of new restaurants that traffic in the retro-luxury fantasias of earlier, more decadent eras has finally reached its apogee in the most anticipated opening of the year, Major Food Group’s The Grill. While Le Coucou has given us quenelles de brochet once more and Thomas Keller promises to restore continental cuisine at TAK Room, Mario Carbone’s menu of both faithfully reconstructed mid-century dishes and new ones inspired by the era, served in one of the most treasured rooms in the city, reaches beyond the simple “old-is-new-again” paradigm.

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